- #M1 GARAND SERIAL NUMBERS SEARCH HOW TO#
- #M1 GARAND SERIAL NUMBERS SEARCH SERIAL NUMBER#
- #M1 GARAND SERIAL NUMBERS SEARCH CODE#
I doubt CMP would turn someone away with an SAI M1 rifle, all they check for is safe trigger pull of at least 4.5 lbs, nothing else. However, for someone who just wants a nice service-type range gun, a 308W M1 is a good choice.īTW, for the past 48 years, SAI has made about half a million M1A rifles (civilian version of the M14) and they all have cast receivers. One note, 308W is not allowed in a the traditional "JCG as issued" M1 Garand matches, as that is limited to 30-06. So it's not as collectible as a USGI M1, but I think they should be a great shooters. But that's me.Springfield Armory Inc (aka SAI) made those M1s I think in the late 1990s or early 2000s, they are all in the 7 million serial range. I will take a rebuilt, "up to snuff" M1 Rifle at $800 to $1200 any day of the week over a $2000 "correct" M1 Rifle that's got a shot out barrel and other worn parts, with bad bolt closure timing and maybe a weak clip ejector spring and a worn op rod latch that won't latch and hold the op rod back properly for loading. In my opinion, a rebuilt M1 Rifle is more desirable because presumably all worn, deficient, or outdated parts were replaced, unless some owner since rebuild did some additional parts swapping. It's a matter of market demand and what a willing buyer would pay for yours. Some collectors tend to pay more for a totally "correct" example, and less for a "rebuild" like yours that has a mixture of parts of various vintages.
#M1 GARAND SERIAL NUMBERS SEARCH SERIAL NUMBER#
With that as background, your rifle is a genuine M1 Rifle, however it is not "correct" even if all other parts are of the proper vintage for the serial number simply because the barrel is a replacement. Back in the day, "parts is parts" was the order of the day, and NOBODY paid any attention to what parts were assembled into rifles as long as they were not obsoleted. At least that is what most serious collectors assume. So a rifle with a receiver serial number dating to June 1943 would be expected to have parts with specific drawing numbers / suffixes that trace to that time, or within a month or three. Bolts are appropriate for post WWII rifles in the 4.20 to 4.22 mil serial number range and later.
Bolts are COMPLETE Unissued New Old Stock - NOS. For example, bolts and other parts have a suffix to the drawing number, something like "-2SA" or "-9SA" where the suffix indicates a particular revision to the part. M1 Garand Bolt Springfield 6528287-SA Heat Lot US1. Purist collectors seem to be caught up in wanting their M1 Rifles to be "correct," will all parts comprising a given example being of the correct vintage. To me, or another shooter, an M1 Rifle that was arsenal rebuilt with a replacement barrel that gauges Muzzle Wear of "0" or "1" is worth more than a "correct" M1 Rifle with an original barrel from early 1945 that is "shot out" and gauges >3 or 4. This does not affect the the value of the weapon in general does it?That depends.
Last edited by Noah_Zark May 13th, 2016 at 01:09 PM. Think of drawing numbers as "part numbers". Barrel drawing numbers from wartime through 1957 were "D35448" where "D" was the size of the blueprint sheet on which the drawing was made, and 35448 was the actual number of the part. Sometime after that, your rifle was rebuilt and this barrel was installed. Your barrel is a postwar replacement made by the government's Springfield Armory in March, 1967.
#M1 GARAND SERIAL NUMBERS SEARCH CODE#
W1 - "Heat Number" i.e., lot number code of the steel from which the barrel was made. The number on the barrel of your M1 Rifle breaks down as follows:Ħ535448 - Drawing number (1960s spare part production) This suggests it was manufactured Jan-Feb 1945.
The reason I think the receiver is WW2 era is because the number on it is: 3429466.
#M1 GARAND SERIAL NUMBERS SEARCH HOW TO#
I want to know how to decipher the number on the barrel. I have an M1 Garand that so far appears to be a WW2 era rifle.
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